Saint Laurent SS27 Delivered Golden Decade Celebration Under the Eiffel Tower

Published: September 30, 2026 Last Updated 11 hours ago by Evelyn Adenike

Anthony Vaccarello presented Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2027 ready-to-wear collection as a highlight of Paris Fashion Week.

The outdoor show at the Trocadéro featured the illuminated Eiffel Tower and oversized chandeliers, casting a golden light over each look.

The collection offered a modern interpretation of 1980s glamour, blending opulence and intentional design with Saint Laurent’s archival codes.

This collection marked approximately ten years since Vaccarello’s debut for the Kering-owned house in 2016. The atmosphere was reflective, with black calla lilies and a personal note from the designer, who declined interviews and described the collection as long-planned and emotionally significant.

Longtime collaborator Charlotte Gainsbourg closed the evening with a surprise performance, referencing Yves Saint Laurent in her lyrics. While some speculated about a possible transition, the collection emphasised continuity and craftsmanship.

Vaccarello devoted the entire collection to one of Yves Saint Laurent’s favourite colours. Show notes referenced the founder’s words: “I love gold; it’s a magical colour. When reflecting a woman, it’s the colour of the sun.”

The collection featured shades from bright 24-karat gold to deeper, antique tones. The result was luminous, with metallic surfaces reflecting light and creating dynamic visual movement.

Safari-inspired jackets, aviator silhouettes, and oversized sleeves were finished with metallic treatments. Organza gowns moved fluidly on the runway, while velvet jackets were accented with gold buttons and sheer bows.

Cocktail dresses featured metal-thread lace, and cropped jackets and trousers were crafted from gilt brocades. Crinkled cotton métallisée and toile froissée provided texture, while select pieces used lamé or latex with gold leaf for a jewelled effect. Guipure lace and intricate brocades were further enhanced by full gold saturation.

Varied textures and silhouettes ensured the collection remained visually engaging.

Oversized jackets were styled open, with strong shoulders, a Vaccarello signature, contrasting with fluid eveningwear and precise tailoring.

Details such as sash belts, sculpted collars, chandelier earrings, and bejewelled turbans reinforced the theme of precise excess. Footwear included high stilettos, with some featuring distinctive S-shaped snake heels.

References to the 1980s appeared authentic, with power shoulders, voluminous sleeves and skirts, and deliberate glamour adapted for contemporary wear.

Vaccarello’s ongoing reference to the house archives and Yves Saint Laurent’s legacy of bold colour and silhouette experimentation culminated in this collection. Gold unified daytime tailoring, cocktail attire, and eveningwear.

A significant structural decision defined the finale.

Following the gold-themed presentation, the finale transitioned to black, inverting the all-gold conclusion of Yves Saint Laurent’s Fall 1991 Rive Gauche collection.

The darker sequence highlighted the house’s seductive, nocturnal character, balancing the metallic elements with classic Saint Laurent intensity.

The front row reflected the show’s cultural significance, with attendees including Hailey Bieber, Zoë Kravitz, Post Malone, BLACKPINK’s Rosé, Donatella Versace, and Pierpaolo Piccioli.

Their attendance signalled both celebration and support for Vaccarello’s decade of redefining the house. He has consistently emphasised strong shoulders, a distinct “going-out” dress sensibility, and a Parisian sense of drama while modernising the brand.

Amid a season of diverse statements, Saint Laurent’s all-gold collection stood out for its clear vision. It achieved maximalism with order, referenced archives without nostalgia, and remained personal yet disciplined.

Vaccarello showed that exploring a single colour across multiple looks and fabrics can remain expansive when executed with refinement. Varied textures encouraged close attention, confident silhouettes stood out, and the setting enhanced each reflective surface.

The show further demonstrated Vaccarello’s skill in balancing the house’s heritage with his own creative vision.

Gold has long been central to the house, but the combination of safari utility, 1980s volume, lamé, and precise tailoring is uniquely Vaccarello’s.

Whether this marks a transition, the collection encapsulates a decade of strong shoulders, relevant eveningwear, and, for one night in Paris, a golden vision.

Saint Laurent Spring 2027 stands as a benchmark of controlled opulence, matching the brilliance of its Eiffel Tower backdrop and affirming the enduring impact of a single, well-chosen colour.

Photo Courtesy