Burberry Spring 2027: Joyful Florals and a Modern Approach to the Iconic Trench

Published: September 22, 2026 Last Updated 11 minutes ago by Evelyn Adenike

London Fashion Week concluded in September 2026 with Burberry unveiling its Spring/Summer 2027 collection, marking the house’s 170th anniversary and highlighting the enduring appeal of its signature trench coat.

Creative director Daniel Lee collaborated with renowned British textile designer Celia Birtwell to create a joyful, playful collection that reinterpreted heritage elements through botanical prints, bold colours and intentional imperfections.

The show took place at Chelsea College of Arts, an appropriate venue given Birtwell’s teaching history there, and conveyed a sense of comfort and delight. Lee described the collaboration as a highlight of the anniversary year.

After meeting Birtwell in the spring, Lee was inspired by her energy and enthusiasm.

“Everybody loves Celia. She’s the epitome of British fashion. Her prints feel timeless,” Lee noted. At 85, Birtwell expressed her admiration in return. She drew inspiration from Burberry’s check, reimagining it with her hand-drawn style into bold, graphic, Pop Art-inspired versions that reflected her playful approach.

The collection featured abundant florals. Mimosas, blueberries, rosebuds, vines and violets appeared as three-dimensional embroideries on pencil skirts, small-scale prints on trenches and softer, impressionistic patterns on coats.

Birtwell also reintroduced vintage “happy-face” and Halloween motifs from her archive, incorporating the playful faces on knits and as medallions on coats and shoes. These details added joy and spontaneity to the collection, contrasting with the house’s usual graphic style.

Birtwell’s perspective softened the Burberry check into gingham and stripes, while her drawings introduced a handmade quality that Lee valued. “You can really feel the human hand in it,” he said. “The imperfections ultimately make things feel more human.”

Trench coats remained central, but Lee approached the classic silhouette with a fresh perspective. The opening look—a pale pink trench with oversized sleeves and a puffed bubble skirt—set a whimsical tone.

Other designs included sheer silk embroidered coats in English-garden shades of lavender and burgundy, blurring the line between coat and dress, as well as more structured styles in silk faille and taffeta. These pieces had a lived-in appearance, with wrinkles, folds and soft pouf skirts.

Braided epaulets were stitched flat against the shoulder and arm.

Bright colors prevailed: butter yellow paired with lilac lipstick, vivid greens, oranges, and sunset hues. Some trenches featured heavy floral embellishments or sheer layers over striped dresses. The final look reflected Lee’s relaxed vision: a cream coat with yellow flowers, styled with neutral trousers and white sneakers.

Streetwear influences and 1970s references appeared throughout the collection. Men’s looks combined denim, trouser chains, and hooded jackets with floral shirts.

Rapper Central Cee modeled an oversized, street-inspired outfit on the runway.

Accessories enhanced the playful atmosphere, featuring oversized 1970s-style sunglasses, floral bag charms, brooches and footwear such as strapped clogs and climbing-inspired designs. The collection felt youthful, wearable and emotionally resonant, intentionally moving away from rigid perfection toward clothing designed for everyday life.

The show coincided with another anniversary event. On the same day, the Victoria and Albert Museum opened “The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon,” a free exhibition in the Prince Consort Gallery at South Kensington.

Running through early January 2027, the exhibition explores the trench coat’s evolution from Thomas Burberry’s 1879 invention of weather-resistant gabardine and its early military and outdoor applications to its current status as a global fashion icon.

Archive pieces, rare catalogues and modern runway designs illustrate the brand’s ongoing creative development.

Front-row guests demonstrated Burberry’s wide cultural influence.

Actors Jonathan Bailey, Jodie Turner-Smith, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley with Jason Statham, Fiona Shaw, and Eve Hewson attended alongside singer Jorja Smith, heptathlete Katarina Johnson-Thompson, and others. Many wore trench coats in leather, bottle-green or classic styles, highlighting the garment’s ongoing relevance.

Lee’s collaboration with Birtwell represents a confident evolution of Burberry’s identity. By combining the house’s functional heritage with Birtwell’s romantic, hand-drawn aesthetic, the Spring 2027 collection introduced color, character and ease.

The collection demonstrated that a 170-year-old trench can feel new when infused with joy, craftsmanship and a spirit of experimentation.

For a brand traditionally known for checks and rainwear, this season presented a broader vision: a vibrant, imperfectly perfect interpretation of British style for the warmer months ahead.

Photo: Giovanni Giannoni