20 African Female Designers To Look Out For In 2024

 

African female designers, often operating in the shadows, contribute significantly to viral trends and influential fashion pieces. The trailblazing legacies of pioneers like Shade Thomas-Fahm and Chris Seydou paved the way for contemporary designers, such as Priya Ahluwalia and Loza Maleombho, who continue to elevate the industry with their unique brands. Despite the challenges of running a brand, these women, including Ahluwalia, Christie Brown, and Maleombho, showcase remarkable resilience and creativity.

Key moments, like Torishéju Dumi’s debut at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2023, exemplify the collaborative spirit among African female pioneers. Teaming up with stylist Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, Dumi presented a buzzy first show, leaving an indelible mark with the support of models Paloma Elsesser and, Naomi Campbell, and Alton Mason.

Notably, Priya Ahluwalia, Tolu Coker, and Torisheju Dumi graced the cover of British Vogue in January 2024, marking a significant milestone for African female designers. These women challenge the fashion industry‘s notorious reputation for being unwelcoming to outsiders and marginalized individuals. Their persistent dedication deserves acknowledgment and support.

As you explore brands to champion this year, consider embracing African female-owned brands. Keep scrolling to discover the names to watch out for.

Nelly Hagan-Deegbe, the face behind the esteemed fashion label Duaba Serwa, has been captivating audiences with her exquisite designs since 2011. More than mere garments, Duaba Serwa’s creations are intricate masterpieces. 

The brand has garnered acclaim for its impeccable craftsmanship, contemporary garments with intricate details, and a distinctive touch of flair. What truly distinguishes the talented designer is the ingenious use of vibrant color palettes and the brand’s signature triangular origami pleats, adding a unique and captivating dimension to each creation.

From gracing the cover of Vanity Fair’s Annual Hollywood issue alongside luminaries like Michaela Coel to earning accolades from global media giants such as CNN, BBC, and Deutsche Welle, Duaba Serwa’s ascent in the fashion world is nothing short of extraordinary.

Her designs have transcended runways and magazines, finding a place among Hollywood’s elite, including notable figures like Lupita Nyong’o and Eva Omaghomi, Director of Community Engagement to King Charles III and Queen Camilla. Yet, Duaba Serwa doesn’t rest at star-studded showcases and high-profile features.

The brand has made an indelible mark on the international fashion stage, gracing prestigious platforms like Alta Roma Alta Moda and Portugal Fashion Week S/S’ 2023, captivating audiences with its distinctive style and innovative garment dyeing techniques.

In the dynamic world of fashion, where innovation and creativity drive transformative change, certain individuals emerge as trailblazers, and one such luminary is Folake Folarin-Coker, a proud Nigerian. As the founder and creative director of Tiffany Amber, one of Africa’s foremost fashion labels, her journey is nothing short of remarkable. She has not only redefined fashion in Nigeria but has also left an indelible mark on the global stage.

Folake achieved a groundbreaking feat as the first African-based designer to showcase her designs for two consecutive seasons at the prestigious New York Fashion Week. This momentous achievement not only put Tiffany Amber on the international map but also highlighted the immense talent emanating from the African fashion scene.

In 2009, she marked a turning point by being honored with the title of “Designer of the Year” at the prestigious African Fashion International event in Johannesburg. Her dedication and ingenuity also earned her the coveted “Fashion Brand of the Year” award at the Arise Fashion Week in Lagos, Nigeria, in 2011.

Folake’s creations are more than just garments; they are works of art that embody the essence of Nigerian beauty and elegance. It’s no wonder that influential Nigerian actresses like Rita Dominic, Genevieve Nnaji, and Joke Silva have chosen to adorn themselves in Tiffany Amber creations. Her brand has transcended borders, with Angolan supermodel Maria Borges gracing the world stage with her designs.

While Folake Folarin-Coker may not frequently dominate the headlines in recent times, her enduring presence in the fashion industry cannot be overstated. With a career spanning nearly three decades, Folake Folarin-Coker’s journey is a testament to her unwavering commitment to redefining fashion. Her accomplishments are as diverse as they are impressive – from receiving the Enterprise Award at the Women, Inspiration & Enterprise Symposium to being recognized among Forbes’ “20 Young Power Africa Women” in 2013.

Sarah Diouf is the visionary force behind the Senegalese ready-to-wear fashion label, Tongoro, embarking on this extraordinary venture in 2016.

Tongoro transcends runways, finding its place on global icons like Beyoncé, Naomi Campbell, Alicia Keys, and more. Sarah’s fervent passion is to elevate West African craftsmanship and culture to a global platform. As a self-identified “child of Africa,” born in Paris but raised in Abidjan, with a rich blend of Senegalese, Congolese, and Central African heritage, Sarah draws from this cultural tapestry, infusing every thread of Tongoro’s essence.

When Sarah envisioned Tongoro, her clarity was unwavering—it had to be 100% made in Africa. Beyond fashion, it was a profound statement, a commitment to advancing the economic and social development of artisans in Western Africa. It was about rewriting the narrative for Africa-based manufacturing.

Drawing inspiration from the regal, airy, and bold styles of Senegalese fashion, Sarah’s creations elegantly merge these aesthetics with global appeal. The result is fashion that not only celebrates cultural diversity but resonates with people worldwide.

One distinctive aspect of Tongoro’s aesthetic is its graphic black-and-white prints, reminiscent of the iconic works of Malick Sidibé and Seydou Keïta, two legendary Malian portrait photographers. These prints have become the brand’s signature, capturing the essence of African heritage and style.

Through Tongoro, Sarah Diouf weaves a powerful story of Africa’s past, present, and future, one stitch at a time.

Palesa Mokubung, a trailblazing force in African fashion, etched her name in history as the first African designer to collaborate with the renowned Swedish global giant, H&M. True Love magazine bestowed upon her the title of ‘the African trend dictator’ in 2019, underscoring her profound influence in shaping fashion trends across the continent.

Her remarkable contributions have garnered accolades, including a prestigious ‘Lifetime Achievement Award’ at the Free State Fashion Week and the Haig Club Clubman Disruptor Award. Palesa Mokubung’s disruptive innovation was further acknowledged when she received the esteemed Carol Bouwer Mbokodo Award in 2014, recognizing her exceptional contributions to Arts and Culture in South Africa.

In 2014, she founded Mantsho, a brand that has graced prestigious fashion weeks globally, including a standout showcase at the BRICS show in 2018. Mantsho has become synonymous with African-inspired prints and contemporary silhouettes, earning admiration from fashion enthusiasts worldwide. Notably, her designs have adorned prominent public figures like Lira, Simphiwe Dana, and Thandiswa Mazwai.

Anifa Mvuemba, the Congolese designer renowned for her brand Hanifa, gained widespread acclaim with her groundbreaking 3D fashion show that seamlessly merged fashion and technology, capturing global attention during the peak of the 2021 pandemic.

Founding Hanifa a decade ago, Mvuemba’s brand has become synonymous with captivating ready-to-wear designs tailored for women of diverse sizes. The debut show, held at the National Portrait Gallery in Washington, U.S., on Nov. 16, 2021, drew a virtual audience of over 20,000 streaming the event on YouTube. Notably, Anifa Mvuemba is credited as the trailblazer behind the first-ever curated 3D virtual fashion show for her label, Hanifa.

Beyond her innovative fashion endeavors, Mvuemba is also the driving force behind The Hanifa Dream, an empowering initiative dedicated to supporting women-owned organizations that contribute to elevating fashion through passion, purpose, and social impact.

Founder Amaka Osakwe’s LVMH Prize nomination attests to the remarkable success story of the ready-to-wear label, Maki Oh, which has emerged as one of the standout achievements in the Nigerian fashion landscape. Making its New York Fashion Week debut in 2012, Maki Oh achieved a significant milestone in 2013 when former U.S. First Lady Michelle Obama adorned one of its designs. The brand’s allure extends further with an esteemed celebrity clientele, counting famous figures like Lupita Nyong’o and Solange Knowles among its admirers.

Mowalola Ogunlesi stands out among African female designers, hailing from Nigeria and crafting garments for the vision of the world she envisions. Her creations have graced notable figures like Drake, Kim Kardashian, and Skepta, and in 2020, she assumed the role of Design Director for Kanye West’s Yeezy Gap initiative.

Fikile Sokhulu, the visionary behind the South African apparel brand Fikile Zamagcino Sokhulu, has carved an impressive path in the fashion industry. Her brand not only participated in the South African Fashion Week New Talent Search Competition in 2018 and 2021 but also secured a finalist position on both occasions. Adding to its accolades, the South African designer’s collections graced the prestigious Cape Town Resort Wear 2019 showcase among other distinguished fashion designers.

Displaying its adaptability, the brand ventured into a collaboration with Mr. Price, unveiling a fashion collection in early 2020. The year 2021 marked a significant milestone, as Fikile Zamagcino Sokhulu was selected as one of the four South African designers for the esteemed Fashion Bridges project sponsored by Camera Nazionalle della Moda Italiana during Milan Fashion Week.

Setting its sights on cultivating an organic aesthetic, the brand aims to resonate with both timeless and contemporary audiences. With a commitment to appealing to a diverse market, Fikile Zamagcino Sokhulu is dedicated to achieving a unique fusion of style that transcends age boundaries.

Awa Meite, a Malian textile and fashion artisan, specializes in the meticulous creation of fashion and accessories using cotton and leather. Her distinctive creations not only demonstrate a profound understanding of diversity in fashion but also bring to light traditional cotton weaving techniques and leather craftsmanship through a contemporary lens.

Meite’s brand challenges the underrepresentation of African female designers, emphasizing the distinctive fusion of materials, intricate patterns, and local expertise while fostering community empowerment. Positioned as a beacon of sustainability and eco-consciousness, the brand incorporates materials such as indigo, bogolan, and organic cotton.

With an unwavering commitment to quality and haute couture design, the brand actively advocates for local transformation and production in Mali, proudly showcasing African craftsmanship on the global stage.

When it comes to exquisite Ankara (West African print) embellishments, Lisa Folawiyo stands out as the brand to turn to. Each of her designs involves meticulous handcraftsmanship, showcasing the dedication and artistry poured into every piece. The designer’s efforts have garnered well-deserved recognition, earning her features in prestigious platforms such as New York Fashion Week, the New York Times, Vogue Italia, Harper’s Bazaar, and Elle.

Her creations have graced Hollywood A-listers like Thandiwe Newton, Lupita Nyong’o, Issa Rae, and the talented songstress Tiwa Savage, further solidifying her brand’s status as a favorite among notable celebrities.

Loza Maleombho’s passion for fashion ignited at the age of 13, when she began crafting clothing for her aunts, mother, and even school uniforms. Her designs seamlessly blend the influences of the three cultures she holds dear: Ivorian, Brazilian, and North American. In 2009, she officially introduced her eponymous label, drawing from the valuable experiences gained during internships with renowned fashion figures like Jill Stuart, Cynthia Rowley, and Yigal Azrouël.

Her exceptional talent has caught the eye of numerous celebrities, including the iconic singer Beyoncé, who has donned Loza Maleombho’s designs, adding another layer of prestige to her already illustrious career.

When global icons like Beyoncé, Genevieve Nnaji, and Jackie Appiah proudly wear your creations, it’s a testament to your exceptional talent. 

In 2008, the Christie Brown brand emerged as a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation, founded by Aisha Ayensu, a two-time recipient of the African Designer of the Year award. Aisha’s profound connection to her heritage, inspired by her grandmother’s legacy as a skilled seamstress, serves as the beating heart of this Ghana-based fashion label.

This heritage permeates every design and print crafted by Christie Brown, imbuing each piece with cultural significance and personal artistic expression. More than a fashion label, Christie Brown weaves a dynamic narrative that celebrates the unique journey of the African woman. It goes beyond clothing, becoming an embodiment of design, storytelling, and a commitment to honoring the essence of every individual who dons its creations.

The label’s distinctive touch lies in traditional African prints that grace bespoke gowns, striking ready-to-wear pieces, and innovative accessories. Each creation serves as an ode to West African culture, a living mural of heritage.

Aisha’s visionary designs have adorned icons like Danai Gurira, Gabrielle Union-Wade in her latest Netflix movie “The Perfect Find,” and American singer Beyonce’s mother, Tina Lawson. This legacy firmly cements Aisha Ayensu’s place among Forbes’ Most Promising Entrepreneurs of 2016.

Ayensu’s award-winning designs weave a narrative of the African woman and her rich heritage. In a global fashion industry thriving in the billions, African female designers, including Aisha Ayensu, contribute significantly and reap the rewards of its colossal success. 

Torishéju Dumi made history as the sole Black designer to grace the runway at Paris Fashion Week in 2023, showcasing her inaugural line, Torishéju. The debut event, held at the Shangri-La hotel, featured a star-studded cast, including Paloma Elsesser and Naomi Campbell, who expressed admiration for Dumi’s creations. Styled by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, a mentor figure to Dumi, and with support from publicist Lucien Pagès, the collection, titled “Fire on the Mountain,” paid homage to a song her mother used to sing during street crossings.

Crafted entirely in her Hackney studio flat, Dumi’s pieces exhibit a monastic influence from her Catholic upbringing, intertwined with wearable, artful designs reminiscent of Louise Bourgeois. Draped detailing and twisted fabric draw inspiration from traditional wrap clothing in her family’s Brazilian and Nigerian heritage.

The designer’s impeccable tailoring reflects her education at London’s Central Saint Martins, with internships under designers like Ann Demeulemeester and Phoebe Philo during her Celine years. Alongside Tolu Coker and Priya Ahluwalia, Torishéju Dumi graces the cover of the new British Vogue, symbolizing a triumphant moment for African female designers.

Tolu Coker, a young British-Nigerian fashion and textile designer, illustrator, and multi-disciplinary artist based in London, founded her brand in 2018 after graduating from Central Saint Martins. Her work, deeply influenced by the politics of identity and social climates, blends artisan craftsmanship with innovative technology, with a strong focus on deconstruction and sustainability.

Coker’s collections explore the complexities of Diasporic Black Identity, creating illustrative, dynamic, and thought-provoking pieces that push the boundaries of contemporary art and fashion. Beyond clothing, her illustrations, documentaries, and fashion films have been commissioned by renowned brands and outlets, including Teen Vogue, Vogue Italia, Diesel, Swatch, Illy Caffè, Vice Media, American Express, and Dr. Martens.

A finalist in ASOS Fashion Discovery 2018 and a triple-award winner at ITS 2018, Coker has a global client base. Her debut designer collection, ‘Juvenile Consciousness,’ premiered at London Fashion Week after winning the coveted Fashion Scout Merit Award. She was listed on the 2019 Evening Standard Progress 1000 list, recognizing London’s most influential people aged 25 and under.

Passionate about using fashion and design for social change, Coker collaborates with Vlisco and The City of Joy to design a collection honoring women survivors of war violence in the Democratic Republic of Congo. In 2020, she partnered with the charity ‘Choose Love’ for London Fashion Week, creating a special t-shirt design to support refugee and minority communities globally.

Recognized as ‘Woman of The Year 2020’ and listed on the Drapers 30 under 30 2021 List, Tolu Coker continues to use her platform to highlight important global issues, setting a precedent for impactful societal projects. Selected as one of Teen Vogue’s ‘Generation Next’ and featured on the Vogue cover, Coker’s eponymous label, TOLU COKER, remains at the forefront of innovative and socially conscious fashion.

Priya Ahluwalia, the designer and founder of the award-winning menswear brand Ahluwalia, launched the label in 2018, infusing it with inspiration from her Indian-Nigerian heritage. With a commitment to sustainable fashion, Ahluwalia repurposes vintage materials in factories employing rural women, ensuring fair wages. In 2020, she participated in London Fashion Week as part of the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN and earned a spot on the shortlist for the prestigious 2020 LVMH Prize.

The label Ahluwalia, known for its innovative approach, intersects near and far, past and present, blending elements from the designer’s dual Indian-Nigerian heritage with her London roots. The brand’s uniqueness lies in exploring the potential of vintage and surplus clothing through textile and patchwork techniques, creating one-of-a-kind pieces.

Ahluwalia extends beyond traditional fashion boundaries, drawing inspiration from art, music, and literature. The brand’s impact is not limited to collections; it encompasses collaborative campaigns, books, and films.

Recognized as a pioneer in the fashion industry, Ahluwalia receives global press coverage from esteemed publications such as the New York Times, i-D, and Vogue. The brand is available in renowned stores worldwide, including Matches Fashion, Browns, Bergdorf Goodman, Ssense, and Nordstrom. Priya Ahluwalia’s commitment to sustainable practices and innovative design has positioned her as one of the top African female designers to look out for in the contemporary fashion landscape.

Kanyinsola Onalaja, the visionary founder and designer of the Onalaja brand, skillfully marries contemporary silhouettes with echoes of African art and traditions. A native of Nigeria, her journey in Fashion Design, spanning from Bachelor to Master, unfolded against the vibrant backdrops of London and Rome. Kanyinsola’s creations bear the imprint of her diverse experiences, intricately translating traditional embellishment techniques into captivating three-dimensional art.

Onalaja garments transcend the conventional; they are interactive, offering a euphoric and multi-sensory experience. From sizes XXS to XXXXL, each piece stands as a testament to Kanyinsola’s unwavering commitment to inclusivity and craftsmanship. Embraced by a myriad of global celebrities, the brand recently adorned Chlöe Bailey in a stunning custom hand-beaded jumpsuit for her mesmerizing performance alongside BJ the Chicago Kid on The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon.

Deola Sagoe, a renowned Nigerian fashion designer and entrepreneur, is the creative force behind The House of Deola Sagoe. Recognized globally, her unique approach to designing vibrant and colorful prints has garnered admiration from notable figures like Oprah Winfrey and Will Smith, who appreciate her celebration of African prints.

Commencing her career in 1989 with a Master’s Degree in Finance and Management from the University of Lagos and the University of Miami, the haute couturier’s multilayered designs reflect her diverse experiences. Her signature creations, Attitude and Elegance, seamlessly blend traditional Nigerian fabrics with Western aesthetics.

The clothing artisan’s influence extends beyond the African continent, earning her fame and respect. Noteworthy achievements include showcasing her couture collection at Cape Town and New York Fashion Weeks and winning the MNET/Anglo Gold African Designs 2000 Award. The United Nations World Food Program appointed her Nigeria’s ambassador for the initiative “Catwalk the World: Fashion for Food,” aimed at reducing starvation, especially among children, by 2015.

In addition to her contributions to fashion, Sagoe designed the label Odua for her mother, a pivotal figure in her fashion journey. Embracing contemporary techniques like hand-dyed Adire fabric by Yoruba women, the fashion trailblazer’s influence transcends generations, as her daughters Teni, Tiwa, and Aba Sagoe now helm the popular CLAN fashion label.

Sagoe acknowledges the progress of the African fashion industry but believes there is still significant room for growth. Her multifaceted career continues to shape and inspire the evolving landscape of African fashion.

Liya Kebede, an Ethiopian designer, fashion model, maternal health advocate, actress, and CEO of LemLem, embodies a socially conscious approach to fashion. Her brand offers a diverse range of dresses, bottoms, tops, and accessories crafted from locally sourced fabrics and skillfully handcrafted by artisans in Addis Ababa.

In her earlier years as a model, the couturier swiftly established herself in Paris, walking for renowned names like Ralph Lauren and BCBG Max Azria within a year of arriving in the city. This success caught the attention of Tom Ford, who personally selected her as a Gucci exclusive for the Autumn/Winter 2000 season.

Beyond her achievements in the fashion industry, the style connoisseur is fervently dedicated to preserving traditional Ethiopian weaving techniques. Currently a mother of two, she’s based in New York, where her passion for fashion and commitment to cultural heritage continue to shape LemLem’s socially conscious identity.

Lola Faturoti, a Nigerian-born fashion designer based in New York, boasts extensive experience and international renown. Originally from Ondo State, she pursued her education in London before relocating to New York in the early 1990s.

The creator’s foray into fashion commenced during childhood, as she assisted her grandmother, also a fashion designer, in creating Nigerian traditional clothes. Despite initially disliking the intricate work, her grandmother’s influence sparked her interest in fashion.

Inspired by her roots, the trendsetter gained recognition in New York when she designed a dress to commemorate Barack Obama’s presidential election victory. The dress featured bold Yoruba words, “Oluwa GBA President Barack Obama,” translating to “God Bless President Barack Obama.”

While in New York, her talent was noticed by Barbara Weiser, the president of the Charivari Boutique, where Faturoti worked. Weiser recognized her potential and passion for extraordinary fashion, facilitating the launch of her inaugural fashion collection.

Lola Faturoti’s fervor for African fashion positions her as a standout among the top African female designers.

Sally, an acclaimed Kenyan fashion designer renowned for her expertise in high-fashion and ready-to-wear collections, stands as the visionary force behind the Mcensal Fashion House, a trailblazer in contemporary East African fashion. Going beyond design, the designer has expanded her impact by establishing the Mcensal Fashion School.

Her acclaim in the fashion realm is attributed to her ingenious incorporation of the Maasai blanket and Kikoi fabric, a distinctive approach that sets her apart. Recognized by African Women Experts as “The Ace of Kenyan fashion,” the style pioneer has defied conventions, seamlessly blending Kenyan cultural elements, such as Maasai blankets and Kikoi fabrics, into her designs.

Photo: Instagram / Folake Coker