When Will Fashion Weeks in Africa Start Celebrating Plus-Size Women?

Fashion has always been a reflection of society’s beauty standards, shifting with time and cultural influences.

Across different eras and regions, what is considered the “ideal body” has evolved, yet one thing remains constant—fashion has historically dictated who gets to be seen and celebrated. Over the past decade, there has been a slow but noticeable shift in body representation on global runways, with plus-size models gaining visibility in major fashion capitals.

New York, London, Milan, and Paris have all made attempts—some more sincere than others—to embrace body diversity. Designers like Christian Siriano, Chromat, and Rihanna’s Savage X Fenty have pushed the boundaries by featuring plus-size models prominently in their shows. The message is clear: fashion should be for everyone.

But in Africa, a continent where curvier bodies have traditionally been celebrated in art, music, and cultural aesthetics, the high-fashion industry tells a different story. African fashion weeks, from Lagos to Johannesburg, continue to uphold Westernized beauty standards that prioritize tall, slim models. This is particularly ironic given that a significant portion of African women are plus-size. Despite a thriving fashion industry that draws inspiration from African heritage, it remains reluctant to include the full spectrum of African body types on its biggest runways.

The absence of plus-size representation in African fashion weeks is not just a question of aesthetics; it speaks to a deeper issue of exclusion, economic oversight, and a reluctance to break away from outdated industry norms.

With the global plus-size fashion market projected to reach $357.1 billion by 2031, Africa’s continued reluctance to embrace curvier women is both a cultural and commercial misstep. The question is no longer whether plus-size women belong in high fashion—they always have—but why African fashion weeks are still hesitating to celebrate these plus-size women.

The Absence of Plus-Size Models on African Runways

A glance at recent African fashion weeks reveals a noticeable pattern—most of the models selected fit a rigid, standardized image. The runways are dominated by tall, slender women, often with features that align with Western beauty ideals.

When plus-size models do make an appearance, they are treated as an exception rather than a norm, often included as a token gesture rather than a genuine effort of inclusivity.

Some designers claim they cater to all body types, yet their runways tell a different story. Even when plus-size collections are created, they are frequently showcased on smaller models, reinforcing the industry’s reluctance to let curvier women take center stage.

This exclusion sends a clear message: high fashion in Africa still adheres to outdated beauty standards, even when a significant percentage of African women do not fit into that narrow mold.

Fashion has always been aspirational, but the notion that only one type of body can represent elegance, creativity, or artistry is outdated. In a continent where curvier bodies have historically been admired and celebrated, why does the high-fashion industry continue to resist its presence on its grandest stages?

The Cultural and Economic Irony of Exclusion

The refusal to embrace plus-size women in African fashion weeks becomes even more puzzling when viewed through cultural and economic lenses. For centuries, African cultures have celebrated full-figured women, associating them with beauty, wealth, and fertility.

Traditional African sculptures, paintings, and folklore reflect this admiration, emphasizing the importance of diverse body types in society. Yet, modern African fashion largely disregards this heritage, favoring a European-influenced ideal of thinness that does not reflect the majority of African women.

From an economic perspective, ignoring plus-size fashion is a missed opportunity. The plus-size clothing industry is one of the fastest-growing sectors in fashion, with increasing demand for stylish, well-tailored pieces that cater to curvier women. African women are no exception—they are actively seeking brands that acknowledge their body types and offer fashionable, well-fitted clothing.

Social media has amplified this demand, with plus-size influencers and fashion bloggers gaining significant followings and proving that curvy women are eager to participate in the fashion world.

Despite this, many African designers continue to overlook this market, either due to outdated industry biases or fear of alienating the existing fashion elite. However, this hesitation is costing them valuable opportunities. If global brands like ASOS, Fashion Nova, and PrettyLittleThing can successfully cater to African plus-size consumers, why are African fashion weeks still hesitant to fully embrace them?

In September 2024, Alexandra Obochi, a plus-size model and multidisciplinary creative, sparked a major conversation about representation on Nigerian runways. During the GTCO Fashion Week model casting, she called out the event’s continued exclusion of plus-size models.

“You’ve never seen a woman like me on GTCO’s runway, have you?” she asked in a video that went viral. “And let’s be honest, size 12 is not a plus-size model.”

Her words struck a nerve, highlighting the fact that the majority of Nigerian women—67% of whom are above size 14—are largely absent from mainstream fashion shows. She challenged the idea that fashion should be restricted to a single body type, questioning why brands are eager to take money from plus-size consumers but unwilling to feature them on their runways.

Obochi’s audition video gained over 1 million views on TikTok, sparking widespread debate across social media. Despite facing backlash, she stood firm in her stance, emphasizing that fashion should be for all women, not just those who fit a narrow standard.

@fatshionistaa I attended gtco fashion weeked last year. I didnt see any plus size model on their runway. And by plus size i don’t mean mean a size 12 with a huge behind, i mean a woman that looks like me and bigger in fact. Rolls ,fupa and more. I said i wasn’t going to apply this year because its always one disappointment after the other, but after i thought about the reason i keep coming back to preach body positivity i decided to apply and use it as a avenue to educate y’all. For the people in the comments that bodyshame me, remember , your sisters and mothers and friends and family look like me and most even bigger, how would they feel if you told them what youre telling me ? Exactly !!! So here’s to hoping once again. #gtcofashionweekend #plussizemodel #plussizetiktok #model #abujatiktokers ♬ Active – Asake & Travis Scott

Her experience mirrors that of many aspiring models in Africa. Okoh Naomi Chidinma, a Nigerian model who wears a size eight, revealed that her international modeling agency pressured her to lose weight to fit the industry standard of a size four or six. “I’ve been asked to lose so much weight, which is very unfair. I want to be one of the first models to break that stereotype,” she said.

Despite her desire for change, Naomi admits she is still working on her body to meet the global fashion industry’s unrealistic expectations.

This pressure to conform is not unique to Africa. A former Vogue editor, Kristie Clements, wrote in The Guardian about the extreme lengths models go to in order to stay thin. Some reportedly starve themselves to the point of hospitalization or even consume toilet paper to suppress hunger.

If high fashion is meant to be an art form that reflects life, then it should include the full spectrum of human bodies—not just those who fit into dangerously restrictive size standards.

Why Are Plus-Size Models Still Sidelined in African Fashion Weeks?

The absence of plus-size models in African fashion weeks is not just a matter of personal preference; it reflects deep-rooted industry biases and logistical challenges that many designers either refuse to acknowledge or are ill-equipped to address.

One of the most common justifications from designers is the issue of sample sizing. Traditional Fashion Week collections are created in standard slim sizes, making it easier and more cost-effective for designers to produce and showcase their work. Including plus-size models would require extra fabric, additional tailoring, and more complex fittings—expenses that many designers are unwilling to take on.

However, this challenge is not unique to Africa; fashion capitals like Paris, New York, and London also deal with these constraints, yet brands committed to inclusivity have found ways to adapt. The idea that it’s too difficult or too expensive doesn’t hold up when the financial benefits of catering to a broader audience far outweigh the initial investment.

Ghanaian costume designer Xorlali Plange weighed in on the issue, explaining in a Twitter thread why runways have historically favored slim models.

“Models are simply canvases on which creatives display their work,” he said. “They are three-dimensional representations of a designer’s vision, not necessarily meant to reflect real-life wearability.” According to Plange, runway models have traditionally been straight-sized because their bodies function as blank slates, allowing the audience to focus solely on the clothing.

He further explained that runway modeling has never been about the model itself. In fact, in earlier years, even conventionally attractive models were sometimes excluded from the runway because their beauty was seen as a distraction. Instead, they were pushed toward commercial work and editorial shoots, where appearance mattered more than movement.

Plange also pointed out the financial burden designers face when creating sample pieces. “Some designers argue that making samples in smaller sizes saves fabric and materials. Since these sample clothes don’t generate direct revenue, they prefer to limit costs,” he said. At institutions like New York University, fashion students are now exploring cost-saving measures like half-scale designs and 3D printing, but the mindset of minimizing expenses still dominates traditional fashion weeks.

This approach reinforces the idea that runway models are merely a marketing tool rather than a reflection of the real customers who will eventually purchase these designs. As Plange puts it, “If I can make it for them, then I can make it for you too.”

Beyond logistical concerns, there is a persistent stigma surrounding plus-size fashion in Africa. Many designers and industry insiders still associate high fashion with one specific body type, believing that curvier figures do not fit into the so-called “runway aesthetic.” This bias is further reinforced by fashion media, which continues to prioritize slim models in editorials, campaigns, and branding efforts.

Even when plus-size models do appear on the runway, they are often treated as a special feature rather than a standard part of the show. Instead of integrating diverse body types throughout their collections, some designers confine plus-size models to dedicated segments or separate fashion events, effectively sidelining them from the mainstream narrative.

Another major influence is the continued dominance of Western beauty standards in African fashion. Despite the continent’s rich history of celebrating fuller figures as symbols of beauty, prosperity, and femininity, many African fashion weeks closely mirror European trends, which have long favored thinner bodies. By prioritizing international validation over local representation, these fashion events end up reinforcing the same exclusionary practices that have long defined Western high fashion.

Ultimately, the reluctance to embrace body diversity on African runways is not about feasibility—it’s about a lack of willingness to challenge outdated norms. The fashion industry has the power to redefine beauty standards, but until it genuinely embraces all body types, plus-size women will continue to be spectators rather than participants in a space that should belong to everyone.

The Few Brands Paving the Way for Plus-Size Inclusion in African Fashion

While most African fashion weeks have been slow to embrace plus-size women representation, a handful of designers and brands are actively challenging the norm. These pioneers recognize the need for body diversity and are pushing back against outdated industry standards by featuring curvier models on the runway and designing clothes for a wider range of body types.

One of the most prominent platforms leading this movement is Plus Size Fashion Week Africa (PFWAfrica), founded by Temi Aboderin-Alao. The event was created to address the lack of affordable and stylish options for plus-size women. However, despite its success, its location in Lagos means that many women across Nigeria are unable to attend.

The question remains: why should plus-size women have to go through extra hurdles just to find clothes that fit? Even in the second-hand market, thrifting is more expensive for bigger sizes, and many Instagram thrift stores stop their size range at 12, further limiting options.

Desiree Iyamah, a Nigerian designer, made waves at Lagos Fashion Week 2024 with a collection inspired by shellfish, Spanish beaches, and ocean life. The runway show transported audiences to a tropical paradise, with fluid fabrics, pastel hues, and bold reds, blues, and oranges that reflected the calmness of coastal scenery.

The collection featured mesh two-piece outfits, shell-adorned dresses, and flowing silhouettes that blended elegance with beach-ready charm. More importantly, Iyamah showcased plus-size models on the runway, proving that high fashion can embrace all body types without compromising creativity or glamour.

Another key player in plus-size advocacy is Latasha Ngwube, founder of About That Curvy Life (ATCL)—a platform dedicated to reshaping the narrative around plus-size fashion in Africa. ATCL has played a critical role in pushing for body diversity, notably curating a plus-size collective showcase during the Glitz Fashion Week 2017. This moment was historic because it was one of the few times plus-size fashion was given a dedicated space at a major African fashion event.

To further amplify body positivity, Ngwube collaborated with brands like Nori’s Clothing, Assian, and Abaya Lagos, all of which design stylish, well-fitted clothing for curvy women. Through her efforts, plus-size representation in African fashion has gained visibility, but there is still a long way to go before it becomes mainstream.

During Lagos Fashion Week 2024, reality TV star Dorathy Bachor also made a statement for plus-size representation when she opened the Hertunba runway show with undeniable confidence. Strutting down the runway in a brown, armless midi dress with bold cutouts, she proved that curvy women belong in high fashion just as much as anyone else.

Despite these groundbreaking moments, these brands and designers remain outliers rather than the standard. The fact that only a handful of African designers have embraced plus-size women highlights the urgent need for a larger industry-wide shift. Fashion weeks across the continent must take note of these pioneers and ensure that inclusivity is not just an occasional feature but an essential part of the industry’s evolution.

While progress is being made, it remains slow and uneven. If African fashion is to truly reflect its people, more designers must step up and acknowledge that beauty and style are not confined to one body type. The brands that have embraced this movement have proven that plus-size fashion is not just relevant but also glamorous, innovative, and commercially successful. The real question now is: when will the rest of the African fashion industry follow their lead?

How African Fashion Weeks Can Lead the Change

If African Fashion Weeks are to truly represent the continent’s diverse fashion landscape, they must take deliberate steps toward inclusivity. The industry must move beyond token representation and integrate plus-size models and designers into the mainstream fashion conversation.

The first step is rethinking model selection. Fashion weeks should establish diversity guidelines that ensure runways reflect the variety of body types that exist within African society. Casting directors and designers must make a conscious effort to include plus-size models in their shows—not as an afterthought but as a standard practice.

Fashion education also plays a crucial role in shifting industry norms. Design schools across Africa must incorporate size inclusivity into their curriculums, training the next generation of designers to create for all body types from the start. This would help break the cycle of exclusivity and encourage more designers to see the artistic potential in designing for curvier figures.

Media representation must also change. Fashion magazines, blogs, and social media influencers need to actively feature plus-size models and brands that cater to them. The more visibility these models and designers receive, the more the industry will be forced to acknowledge their importance.

Finally, consumers have a role to play in driving change. The power of consumer demand cannot be underestimated—if plus-size women in Africa continue to support brands that embrace inclusivity and challenge those that do not, the industry will have no choice but to evolve.

The exclusion of plus-size women from African fashion weeks is not just a fashion issue; it is a reflection of outdated beauty standards and industry biases that need to be dismantled. Fashion is meant to celebrate expression, creativity, and individuality. For it to remain relevant in Africa, it must embrace the full spectrum of African beauty.

The question is not whether African fashion weeks will eventually celebrate plus-size women. The real question is: how long will it take before the industry catches up with the reality of its own audience? The future of fashion in Africa depends on its ability to evolve, and the time for change is now.

Photo: Instagram/desireeiyamaofficial