Photo: Instagram.com/Nkwo_official
Sustainability is becoming increasingly crucial in the global fashion industry, as many fashion brands commit to developing more environmentally and socially ethical production techniques. The African fashion industry is no exception as evidenced by the increased focus on sustainability in recent years.
As a result, African fashion designers and brands have increasingly embraced sustainability as a key component in their design and production procedures in order to support and maintain ecologically sensitive practices while promoting the African cultural heritage.
Acclaimed Nigeria’s and premier sustainable fashion brand, NKWO, has done a lot to advance the cause of sustainable fashion. The brand’s strategy for sustainability is focused on using locally sourced, environmentally friendly materials, upcycling, and supporting ethical production methods. Ahead, we have highlighted the relevance of sustainable fashion and why it looks like NKWO is the only fashion brand in Nigeria that cares about our environment.
What is Sustainability in Fashion?
The term “sustainability” simply denotes a collection of ecologically responsible practices intended to lessen the damaging effects of the fashion industry on the environment, society, and the economy. In addition to protecting cultural legacy, sustainable fashion seeks to advance moral and ethical standards in creating, manufacturing, distributing, and consuming apparel. Generally speaking, sustainability in fashion is a comprehensive idea that aims to develop a more accountable, ethical, and inclusive fashion industry that is socially and environmentally mindful.
For Green Strategy, Sustainable fashion is “manufactured, marketed and used in the most sustainable manner possible, taking into account both environmental and socio-economic aspects.”
Photo: Instagram.com/Nkwo_official Models walking the catwalk for the sustainable brand NKWO during the 2023 ARISE Fashion Week in Lagos.
Many African fashion designers have now incorporated sustainable practices into their production processes. For example, some designers use natural dyes instead of synthetic ones, which reduces the number of harmful chemicals and pollutants released into the environment. Others have implemented zero-waste techniques in their design process, using fabric scraps and offcuts to create new pieces, accessories, or crafts.
Some of the key aspects of sustainability in fashion include:
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Using eco-friendly materials
Sustainable fashion promotes the use of materials that have been sustainably sourced and produced. This includes natural and organic materials, recycled fabrics, and materials that have been produced using environmentally friendly processes.
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Reducing waste
Sustainable fashion aims to minimize waste by implementing production processes that use less energy and water, reducing textile waste, and using recycled materials. Some sustainable fashion brands have also started to implement circular economy models, which promote the recycling, upcycling, and repurposing of clothing to reduce waste.
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Ethical production practices
Sustainable fashion also promotes fair and ethical working conditions for workers in the fashion industry. This includes paying workers a living wage, providing safe and healthy working environments, and protecting their rights.
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Promoting cultural heritage
Sustainable fashion brands often prioritize using traditional and cultural materials, patterns, and techniques, which helps preserve cultural heritage and support local artisans and communities.
Photo: Instagram.com/nkwo_official Photo showcasing a pile of unwanted clothes in the Atacama Desert in Chile.
Why is NKWO seemingly the only brand in Nigeria that cares about our environment?
The evolution of sustainability in African fashion is a positive development that aligns with the growing global trend towards ethical and environmentally conscious fashion. By incorporating sustainable practices into their design and production processes, African fashion designers and brands such as NKWO are promoting a more responsible and inclusive industry, while also preserving and promoting Africa’s rich cultural heritage.
NKWO is a forerunner in Nigeria’s sustainable fashion movement, emphasizing resource conservation. Driven with intention, the Nigerian label NKWO is what its founder, Nkwo Onwuka herself characterizes as a conscientious brand. “At NKWO sustainability means being mindful of the impact of running a fashion business on the environment with a focus on textile waste reduction and how we can use this as a means of restoring the traditional value systems – including traditional craft skills – that have been corrupted by fast fashion.”, Nkwo, who is also the creative director of the eponymous sustainable fashion brand said in a Q&A session with Ndaane, a platform dedicated to emerging African fashion talents.
In 2012, NKWO re-launched with a focus on preserving traditional skills while reducing the harmful consequences of textile waste. Each ready-to-wear item is richly made with traditional West African weaving, beading, hand-dyeing, and embroidery techniques. “Dakala,” the designer’s original fabric, was developed utilizing a modern strip weaving process.
One of the key ways in which NKWO promotes sustainability is through its use of upcycling. The brand uses recycled materials to create new pieces, reducing the amount of textile waste that would otherwise end up in landfills. NKWO also incorporates traditional African textiles, such as adire and aso-oke, into its designs, promoting local and culturally significant materials.
Photo: Instagram.com/nkwo_official In addition to upcycling and using local materials, NKWO promotes ethical production practices. The brand partners with local artisans and cooperatives to create its garments, providing sustainable employment opportunities and fair wages. This approach helps to support local communities and preserve traditional skills and crafts.
With a focus on the empowerment of artisan communities, particularly women, the designer never stops experimenting with the materials in her immediate environment, like secondhand clothing, to discover new approaches and methods for preserving the art of living and savoir-faire of African heritage for future generations.
NKWO uses eco-friendly dyes and natural fabrics such as cotton and silk, which are sustainably sourced and produced. The brand also avoids the use of harmful chemicals and pollutants in its production processes, which helps to reduce the environmental impact of its clothing.
In an interview with the online magazine Fashion Africa Now, Nkwo Onwuka explained her label’s sustainable realities, saying, “being a research-focused label, we are constantly experimenting and looking at ways of solving the very modern problem of excess textile waste.”
NKWO is an artisanal brand at the vanguard of Nigeria’s sustainable fashion movement, with the label’s key beliefs being the conservation of natural resources and the environment. NKWO’s sustainable fashion initiative is a good example of how African fashion houses can promote sustainable practices while simultaneously benefiting local people and preserving cultural heritage.
Photo: Instagram.com/nkwo_official NKWO, as a fashion brand, has made a conscious effort to incorporate sustainable practices into its business model. For instance, the brand sources its materials from local textile manufacturers who use eco-friendly and natural fibers. Additionally, the Lagos-based fashion house implements zero-waste production techniques and upcycles leftover materials into new designs, thereby reducing waste and contributing to a circular economy.
While it’s encouraging to see fashion brands like NKWO prioritize sustainable practices, it’s important to note that sustainability in fashion is a complex issue. Achieving true sustainability involves addressing not only the environmental impact of fashion but also the social and economic impact on the people involved in the industry. It’s therefore essential to support fashion brands that prioritize sustainability, and there are likely other fashion brands in Nigeria that are gradually becoming committed to environmental and social responsibility.
