An Insight into the Schiaparelli Exhibition at the V&A Museum

The Victoria and Albert Museum in London presents Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art, the first major UK retrospective of Maison Schiaparelli, opening March 28, 2026.

This exhibition spans from the 1920s to today, transforming the Sainsbury Gallery into a surreal environment that connects Elsa Schiaparelli’s pioneering vision with Daniel Roseberry’s contemporary couture.

The exhibition demonstrates that fashion is a form of art, featuring over 400 objects, including ensembles, artworks, accessories, jewelry, perfumes, furniture, and archival materials. It highlights Elsa Schiaparelli’s innovative collaborations with surrealist artists such as Salvador Dalí and her transformation of clothing into artistic statements.

The show also showcases Daniel Roseberry’s contemporary interpretations, underscoring Schiaparelli’s enduring impact on both fashion and art.

Who Was Elsa Schiaparelli? The Italian Disruptor Who Rivaled Chanel

Born in Rome in 1890, Elsa Schiaparelli was an Italian aristocrat known for her unconventional approach to fashion. After moving to Paris, she established her maison in 1927, inspired by Paul Poiret to transform her personal style into a business.

Unlike Coco Chanel’s focus on understated elegance, Schiaparelli embraced avant-garde influences, drawing inspiration from Dada and Surrealism through her relationships with artists such as Man Ray, Jean Cocteau, and Salvador Dalí.

Schiaparelli’s 1927 trompe-l’œil “bow” sweater, which used contrasting stitching to mimic a fabric bow, gained immediate acclaim and was featured in Vogue. By the 1930s, she expanded her collections to include sportswear, tailored suits with unique pockets, and theatrical evening wear.

She introduced “Shocking Pink,” visible zippers as decorative elements, and innovative fabrics. At her peak, her Place Vendôme atelier employed hundreds and served clients ranging from Wallis Simpson to Hollywood celebrities.

Schiaparelli closed her couture house in 1954, leaving a lasting legacy. The brand was revived in 2012, and Daniel Roseberry became creative director in 2019, bringing renewed surrealist energy that has attracted contemporary celebrities.

Surrealism Meets Fashion: Iconic Dalí Collaborations on Display

A central focus of the Schiaparelli exhibition at the V&A museum is Schiaparelli’s collaboration with Salvador Dalí, which resulted in some of fashion’s most iconic pieces. These works are displayed alongside the artists’ own creations, highlighting the mutual influence between fashion and fine art.

A notable example is the 1937 Lobster Dress, a white silk gown embroidered with a red lobster, created with Dalí and famously worn by Wallis Simpson. Displayed with Dalí’s 1938 Lobster Telephone, this pairing emphasizes the playful and surreal qualities central to their collaboration. The dress, which preceded the sculpture, demonstrates Schiaparelli’s influence on the artists she worked with.

The 1938 Skeleton Dress, a black crepe gown with padded quilting that simulates an exposed ribcage and spine, is another highlight. A letter from Dalí commending the “bones on the outside” concept is displayed nearby, acknowledging Schiaparelli’s vision.

The Tears Dress from the same year features trompe-l’œil rips in pink fabric, revealing “raw flesh” beneath, and is often interpreted as a commentary on vulnerability and conflict. A matching veil with three-dimensional tears enhances the effect.

Other notable pieces include the iconic Shoe Hat, a black felt hat shaped like a woman’s shoe with a pink heel, favored by Gala Dalí and Helena Rubinstein. The exhibition features additional trompe-l’œil designs, such as the 1927 bow-knot sweater, Pour le Soir dinner suits, and embroidered jackets with Jean Cocteau’s artwork.

Schiaparelli’s perfumes, including the Shocking bottle by Leonor Fini, as well as furniture and jewelry collaborations with artists like Alberto Giacometti and Jean Schlumberger, are also on display.

From Historical Shock to Modern Spectacle: Daniel Roseberry’s Revival

The exhibition extends beyond the 1950s, connecting Elsa Schiaparelli’s legacy to the present by featuring contemporary pieces that reflect the house’s surrealist heritage.

Daniel Roseberry has revitalized the brand with couture characterized by exaggerated silhouettes, anatomical motifs, and gilded embellishments that honor the founder’s original vision.

Highlights include the golden bronchial lung necklace and gown worn by Bella Hadid at the 2021 Cannes Film Festival, as well as a black-and-gold reinterpretation of the Skeleton Dress for Dua Lipa at the 2024 Golden Globes.

These contemporary pieces are displayed alongside historical works, demonstrating Schiaparelli’s ongoing influence on red carpets and runway shows. Celebrities such as Ariana Grande have also embraced Roseberry’s designs, introducing the maison’s aesthetic to new audiences.

Roseberry’s sculptural and theatrical approach demonstrates that Schiaparelli’s philosophy of “fashion becomes art” remains highly relevant in today’s visually driven, digital culture.

Why This Exhibition Matters: Fashion as Cultural Force

Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art Exhibition at the V&A museum is timely, emphasizing that clothing can serve political, emotional, and conceptual purposes as disciplinary boundaries continue to blur. Schiaparelli challenged conventions through humor and absurdity, and her influence persists in contemporary fashion, from punk aesthetics to artist collaborations.

The V&A, recognized for major fashion exhibitions on Dior, Balenciaga, and Alexander McQueen, presents Schiaparelli as a peer among these innovators. Curated with input from the maison and new research by V&A teams, the exhibition offers new perspectives on Schiaparelli’s influence on British and international cultural history.

 

The exhibition features immersive displays, including sculpted silhouettes, curated hat collections, and carefully arranged juxtapositions. It runs until November 8, 2026, at V&A South Kensington (Cromwell Road, London SW7 2RL). Tickets are £28 on weekdays and £30 on weekends, with concessions and free entry for members. Early booking is advised, particularly for weekends during the initial months. Book here

Planning Your Visit and Must-See Tips

To maximize your visit:

• Allocate at least two hours to fully experience the exhibition, which features over 200 objects and a comprehensive narrative.
• Observe the dialogue between past and present, with historical Dalí pieces displayed alongside Roseberry’s contemporary designs.
• Be sure to view the archival photographs, sketches, and personal items that provide insight into Elsa Schiaparelli as an entrepreneur, mother, and visionary.
• Consider combining your visit with other V&A exhibitions or nearby South Kensington museums for a comprehensive cultural experience.

Fashion enthusiasts will find inspiration in anatomical motifs, bold color blocking, surreal accessories, and narrative-driven designs. Art lovers will gain a deeper appreciation for Surrealism’s influence on everyday objects.

The Enduring Legacy of Schiaparelli

Elsa Schiaparelli once said she wanted to make clothes that were “shocking.” Nearly a century later, her maison still delivers that jolt through a tear that reveals hidden vulnerability, a lobster that turns dinner into theater, or a gilded lung that transforms the body into sculpture.

The Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art Exhibition at the V&A museum doesn’t just document a designer; it celebrates a philosophy where imagination knows no bounds.

Whether you are interested in historical innovation, celebrity red-carpet style, or the intersection of art and fashion, this exhibition affirms Schiaparelli’s significance as a leading force in the industry. In London this spring and beyond, fashion and art converge in remarkable ways.

Photo: V&A Museum