The 2024 South African Fashion Week (SAFW) unfolded spectacularly in the vibrant city of Johannesburg, offering a captivating experience that fused tradition with modernity. Set against the striking backdrop of Melrose Arch, a lifestyle precinct celebrated for its unique urban aesthetics, the event united a diverse array of designers from South Africa and a few from neighboring regions like Mozambique.
The focus was squarely on creating collections that appeal to a global audience while respecting and uplifting African heritage. Designers were encouraged to explore innovative materials and methods that minimize environmental impact while celebrating the rich cultural narratives that underpin their work.
The event featured over 30 designers — a mix of established brands, and promising newcomers, each presenting bold, imaginative collections that captivated the audience. This diverse participation highlighted the creative synergy within the continent, affirming that African fashion is a dynamic and evolving entity on the world stage.
The Autumn-Winter 2025 collections showcased an impressive range of styles. From vibrant textiles to intricate beadwork, the designs paid homage to traditional craftsmanship while incorporating modern design elements.
Many collections drew inspiration from African landscapes, cultural stories, and societal issues, creating pieces that were not just clothing but statements of identity and belonging.
Renowned designers like Gert-Johann Coetzee and Imprints displayed their talent through innovative silhouettes, clever layering, and striking use of color palettes that dared to defy conventional fashion norms. The runway transformed into a canvas where heritage and contemporary aesthetics met, igniting a dialogue about the potential of African fashion in the global marketplace.
Day 1: Royalty and Glamour in Motion
Opening on September 26, 2024, the Autumn-Winter South African Fashion Week began with an air of luxury and elegance. South African designer, Thabo Makhetha, captivated the audience with her Basotho-inspired capes and ponchos. Her pieces, inspired by African royalty, blended bold, traditional patterns with modern minimalism, creating a sense of regal sophistication.
Next on the runway, ERRE showcased her powerful, sculpted forms, pushing the boundaries of traditional fashion with voluminous designs that empowered women. Known for her strong yet feminine approach, ERRE remained true to her vision of creating fashion for the fearless woman. The brand, based in South Africa, is known for blending dramatic silhouettes with meticulous craftsmanship.
Photo Courtesy A model walked the runway for Erre at the South African Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025.
A shift to urban streetwear followed with Ephymol, another South African talent, who introduced a collection featuring vintage-inspired streetwear with earthy tones and modern cuts. His collection presented a playful juxtaposition between nostalgia and modernity, offering a fresh take on wearable fashion for the everyday style enthusiast.
A model walked the runway for Ephymol Collective during the South African Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025.
The Bam Collective, led by South African designer Matt Bam, infused youthful energy into the show with bright colors and bold prints. Their designs resonated with younger fashion lovers, combining innovative cuts with a sense of playfulness and freedom.
A model walked the runway for Bam Collective during the South African Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025.
To close the evening, one of the most anticipated moments came with the arrival of Gert-Johan Coetzee, who just returned from his London Fashion Week debut. His collection was a celebration of glamor, featuring opulent gowns adorned with sparkle and intricate embellishments.
Photo Courtesy A model walked the runway for Gert-Johan Coetzee during the South African Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025.
As one of the favorite fashion labels for South African celebrities and beyond, Coetzee’s pieces evoke a sense of fantasy, blending Western trends with African craftsmanship.
Day 2: Sustainability Meets Avant-Garde
The second day, September 27, 2024, was marked by an exploration of sustainability and avant-garde fashion.
Leading the charge was Munkus, a designer from Johannesburg, whose kaleidoscopic colors and oversized accessories told a personal narrative of identity and culture. His pieces, rich with vibrant prints, celebrated African heritage in a contemporary fashion context, offering a joyful fusion of tradition and modernity.
From Cape Town, Helon Melon brought a minimalist approach to the runway. Known for her soft pastels and timeless cuts, Helon’s collection was a tribute to simplicity and sophistication. The emphasis on clean lines and elegant shapes created an understated beauty that resonated with fashion purists.
Photo Courtesy A model walked the runway for Helon Melon during the South African Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025.
The menswear brand GUGUBYGUGU also took center stage with a collection titled “Manufactured, not Made.” Designer Gugu Cuma focused on craftsmanship, with tailored suits in shades of lavender and a commitment to detail that exemplified the best of bespoke menswear.
The avant-garde came to life with Viviers, a Johannesburg-based design collective. Their focus on gender-fluid fashion broke the boundaries of conventional styling, incorporating intricate detailing and unique accessories. Viviers’ pieces were daring, offering a fresh perspective on how fashion can serve as a medium of self-expression beyond gender norms.
Day 3: Inclusivity and Cultural Celebration
The final day, September 28, 2024, was a rich tapestry of inclusivity and cultural celebration, with designers presenting collections that honored African heritage and modern techniques.
Isabel de Villiers, a champion of body positivity, brought an inclusive collection designed for women of all shapes and sizes. Her bold use of red and pink hues paired with tactile organic shapes made for a refreshing take on fashion that celebrates diversity in beauty.
From Mozambique, Sania Bacar graced the runway with her earthy denim tones and royal blue patterns. Her collection took inspiration from the textures and landscapes of Africa, seamlessly merging traditional African aesthetics with contemporary design techniques.
Closing out the day was Leon von Solms, whose collection stood out as a work of art. Featuring hand-painted dresses, Leon’s designs were more than just fashion—they were statements. Each piece, bursting with color and abstract designs, made it clear that his vision extended beyond the ordinary, offering a wearable art experience.
