Are Luxury Fashion Brands Finally Paying Attention to Black Women?

For decades, luxury fashion has built its appeal on exclusivity, thriving on scarcity and aspiration. From glossy runways to intricate couture and sky-high price tags, it has long been a world designed for the privileged few.

Despite their undeniable impact on global culture, beauty standards, and fashion trends, Black women have often been excluded from this space. The industry, shaped by Eurocentric ideals, has consistently overlooked Black women as both consumers and creators, from Paris runways to New York’s luxury storefronts.

However, change seems to be emerging. In recent years, luxury fashion brands have begun making more visible efforts to include Black women in their campaigns, leadership roles, and runway shows. More Black models are appearing on prestigious magazine covers, Black creatives are stepping into leadership positions, and collaborations with Black celebrities are becoming common.

But is this shift authentic? Or are brands simply responding to public pressure and trends without addressing the systemic inequalities that have existed for years?

Ahead, we’ll examine the evolving relationship between Black women and luxury fashion. Are Black women finally being recognized for their significant contributions, or is this another instance of performative inclusion?

We’ll also touch on the history of exclusion, the key moments that forced the industry to confront its biases, the influence of Black consumers, and whether these recent changes signal real progress or just a fleeting trend.

The Exclusion of Black Women By Luxury Fashion Brands

Black women’s contributions to the fashion and beauty industry were ignored or appropriated for decades. Designers mined inspiration from Black culture but excluded Black women from campaigns, runways, and leadership roles. Luxury fashion wasn’t just indifferent to Black women; it actively shut them out.

This exclusion was no accident; it stemmed from systemic biases deeply embedded in the industry. Luxury fashion’s idealized consumers and muses were wealthy, white European women. Black women—with their diverse features, hair textures, and skin tones—didn’t fit into this narrow standard of beauty. 

Even trailblazers like Naomi Campbell faced persistent discrimination. Despite her groundbreaking success, Campbell often had to fight for equal pay and recognition. This struggle is detailed in the book Naomi: Updated Edition, which features texts written exclusively by Campbell alongside a collection of magazine covers, advertisements, video stills, and more.

Earlier pioneers like Beverly Johnson and Iman broke barriers in the 1970s and 1980s, yet their achievements were often treated as exceptions, not a signal of progress. 

This bias wasn’t limited to the runway. In luxury boutiques, Black women frequently faced discrimination—followed by security, ignored by sales staff, or dismissed as not belonging. Despite their growing purchasing power and undeniable cultural influence, these experiences reinforced the idea that luxury fashion was not for them.

Yet, many of fashion’s most iconic moments trace back to Black culture, creativity, and influence. From bold African-inspired prints to the dominance of streetwear in high fashion, Black women have long been trendsetters, pushing the boundaries of style. Yet, their contributions have often been overshadowed, erased, or co-opted by an industry fixated on Eurocentric ideals.

Braided hairstyles, vibrant colors, and oversized silhouettes—styles born in Black communities—are now staples in contemporary fashion. However, while designers profit from these trends, they frequently overlook the very women who created them. Despite this, Black women have consistently reshaped global fashion, challenging norms, and redefining style with fearless originality.

For instance, Black women account for $1.2 trillion in annual spending power in the U.S. alone, a significant portion of which influences fashion trends. Moreover, most of the viral fashion trends in the last decade have roots in Black culture, led predominantly by women. These contributions continue to set the pace for global style innovation.

Even before luxury brands acknowledged their impact, Black women were shaping the industry. Patterns like kente and Ankara inspired high fashion’s use of prints, while the rise of hip-hop—driven in part by Black women—pushed streetwear into the luxury space. From Josephine Baker’s captivating 1920s Paris to Harlem Renaissance icons redefining elegance, Black women have always led the way. Today figures like Rihanna, Beyoncé, Zendaya, and other women are more than influencers—they are collaborators, muses, and trailblazers in luxury fashion.

Black women have always been architects of style, driving innovation and inspiring trends. The question now is whether the industry will genuinely recognize their influence or continue to benefit from it without offering them a seat at the table.

The Cultural Shift

The late 2010s marked a turning point in luxury fashion. Movements like #BlackLivesMatter and the rise of social media gave Black women a platform to demand change and call out inequality. Luxury brands, once comfortable operating in their exclusive bubble, were suddenly under public scrutiny. Consumers began using social media to hold them accountable for their lack of diversity and representation.

The industry’s initial response was clumsy. In 2019, Gucci faced backlash for its blackface sweater, a glaring example of how disconnected many brands were from cultural awareness. After widespread criticism, Gucci apologized and introduced diversity initiatives, including its Changemakers Fund to support communities of color.

Similar controversies, like Prada’s release of racially insensitive products, forced brands to confront their biases and acknowledge the need for inclusivity—not just as a moral obligation but as a business necessity.

In response, the industry began taking steps toward change. Brands hired diversity officers, featured more Black models in campaigns, and committed to improving representation. Whether these efforts stemmed from genuine commitment or fear of public backlash is debatable, but the impact is undeniable.

Today, Black women are more visible in luxury fashion than ever before. Models like Adut Akech, Anok Yai, and Precious Lee are dominating runways for major brands such as Chanel, Prada, and Versace. Their presence represents a new era of beauty—one that celebrates diversity and challenges the industry’s Eurocentric standards. 

Representation, however, goes beyond the runway. It’s about power and decision-making behind the scenes. Virgil Abloh’s appointment as Louis Vuitton’s artistic director of menswear was a groundbreaking moment, as was Olivier Rousteing’s leadership at Balmain. These roles aren’t just symbolic; they reflect a shift toward inclusive storytelling and design.

Black creatives across the board are gaining recognition. Stylists, photographers, and makeup artists are helping reshape the industry with their unique perspectives. Collaborations with influential Black women have also brought authenticity and relevance to luxury collections.

Rihanna’s historic partnership with LVMH to launch Fenty made her the first Black woman to lead a luxury brand under the conglomerate. Beyoncé’s Ivy Park line with Adidas has redefined collaborations, emphasizing inclusivity and empowerment.

Serena Williams’ work with Nike further highlights the demand for designs that reflect Black women’s experiences and aesthetics. These partnerships not only elevate Black voices but also prove that inclusion is good for business, marking a significant cultural shift in luxury fashion.

The Economic Influence of Black Women

Black women aren’t just creators and trendsetters — we are also some of the most influential consumers in the luxury fashion industry. According to Nielsen, Black Americans collectively hold over $1.6 trillion in spending power, with Black women leading the charge in beauty, fashion, and lifestyle purchases.

What sets Black women apart as consumers is their intentionality. They don’t just buy products—they expect brands to align with their values. They hold companies accountable, calling out performative allyship and rewarding those who demonstrate genuine inclusivity.

This shift toward conscious consumerism has pushed luxury brands to rethink their strategies, emphasizing transparency, representation, and authenticity in their marketing.

The Rise of Black-Owned Luxury Fashion Brands

As the luxury fashion industry reckons with its history of exclusion, Black-owned brands are stepping into the spotlight. Black women are no longer waiting for validation from traditional luxury houses; they are creating their own. Labels like Telfar, LaQuan Smith, and Hanifa are redefining luxury by centering Black culture and creativity in their designs.

These brands are not just gaining attention; they are reshaping the definition of luxury itself. Telfar Clemens, the designer behind Telfar, disrupted traditional notions of exclusivity with his “It’s not for you—it’s for everyone” ethos. His bags have become global favorites, proving that luxury can be both inclusive and aspirational.

Similarly, Anifa Mvuemba, the founder of Hanifa, made headlines with her innovative virtual runway show in 2020. Her bold and elegant designs celebrate Black women’s bodies, emphasizing curves and individuality.

This growing wave of Black-owned luxury brands shows that there is a strong demand for products that authentically reflect Black experiences. By building their own legacies, these brands are reclaiming power and rewriting the rules of the industry.

Challenges and Criticisms

While there’s no denying progress, questions remain about whether luxury fashion’s focus on Black women is sincere or just performative. Featuring Black models in campaigns or on runways is a good start, but true inclusivity requires deeper, systemic change.

Critics argue that many brands still engage in “diversity washing,” offering token representation without addressing core issues. Genuine inclusion means going beyond appearances—it involves diversifying leadership, supporting Black designers, and ensuring fair treatment of Black consumers in stores. 

Token gestures won’t suffice; brands need to show long-term commitment by investing in Black communities and creating real opportunities.

Looking Ahead

Luxury fashion’s evolving relationship with Black women raises an important question: is this change here to stay? The industry must move past surface-level representation and commit to meaningful transformation. This includes amplifying Black voices and tackling the structural inequalities that have long-defined fashion.

In the meantime, Black women are no longer waiting for the industry to evolve. They’re leading the charge—building their own brands, driving innovation, and redefining what luxury means. True luxury is no longer about exclusivity; it’s about authenticity, creativity, and inclusion. The future of fashion belongs to Black women, and the world is finally starting to recognize their impact.

Photo: Instagram/briimages