Here’s Everything You Need To Know About Locs

Locs are a striking hairstyle for natural hair that carries significant cultural and historical importance. You may have heard them referred to as “dreadlocks,” but this term isn’t widely accepted (we’ll delve into this shortly).

Locs involve strands of hair matting and locking together over time to form thick, rope-like coils. Unlike dreadlocks, which historically have negative connotations, locs are celebrated for their cultural significance and symbolism.

Before deciding to get locs, it’s important to understand their origins and meaning. The hairstyle has been embraced for centuries by various cultures across the globe, often symbolizing strength, spirituality, and identity. Locs are not just a hairstyle but a powerful statement of cultural pride and personal expression.

Here’s a detailed look at what you should know about locs, including tips on styling and their rich historical background.

What Are Locs?

Locs are thick, rope-like strands of hair that form when the hair is allowed to naturally tangle and knot without being brushed or combed out. You can also start locs with techniques like braiding, twisting, or interlocking with a tool.

Locs are more than just a hairstyle; they carry deep cultural and spiritual significance for many people.  

History of Locs

The history of locs spans diverse cultures and periods. While there’s ongoing debate over who should wear them, locs haven’t been exclusive to people of African descent, historically. The hairstyle dates back to ancient Greece and has been embraced by various religions and cultures, including Hindus and ancient Israelites. 

During the trans-Atlantic slave trade from the 1600s to 1800s, enslaved Africans were unable to maintain their hair due to harsh conditions during the journey, resulting in matted locks upon arrival. Slave owners derogatively referred to these as “dreadlocks,” reflecting negative perceptions.

Today, many wearers proudly refer to them as “dreads” and reclaim the term with positive meanings, acknowledging their spiritual significance in certain cultures worldwide.

Locs vs Dreadlocks

Locs hairstyles are characterized by thick, rope-like strands of hair known as Jata in Sanskrit, or simply as dreads or locs.

While all these names are accurate, “locs” is the most widely used and preferred term due to negative associations with “dread.”

The term “dreadlocks” originated during the slave trade era when enslaved individuals lacked the proper time and means to groom their hair. Enslavers often viewed this natural hair state negatively and termed it “dreadful.” 

This historical context has made “dreadlocks” a reminder of a traumatic past for African American communities worldwide.

Types of Locs

You’ll be amazed by the variety of styles available for locs. Here are the main types of locs hairstyle:

Traditional Locs:

Initiated through methods like backcombing, twisting, or interlocking, these locs take several months to mature but offer versatility in styling.

Sisterlocks:

These are ultra-thin and uniform locs formed using a specialized tool. While time-consuming to create, they result in a full head of neat, evenly-spaced locs.

Freeform Locs:

The most natural and low-maintenance type, freeform locs allow your hair to lock naturally without precise parting or patterns, similar to Bob Marley’s iconic style.

Instant Locs:

If you’re eager for locs without the wait, you can attach loc extensions to your hair for an instant transformation. However, caution is advised as improper installation can damage your hair.

Phases of Locs Growth

When you begin your loc journey, it’s important to remember that it’s a gradual process. Unless you opt for instant locs, achieving fully matured locs takes time and patience. There are four main phases of loc growth to anticipate:

Budding Phase

During this initial phase, known as budding, your locs start to take shape. Initially soft, they gradually harden and expand from the middle to the ends. This phase typically lasts up to 16 weeks but may vary based on your hair texture.

It’s crucial to care for your budding locs properly by using lightweight, water-soluble products to prevent buildup. Avoid heavy oils, waxes, and creams that can hinder the locking process. When retwisting new growth, opt for natural oils or hair gels without alcohol to maintain moisture and minimize frizz.

Baby Loc Phase

Often dubbed the “struggle” stage, the baby loc phase follows budding. This is when your hair begins to form into defined locs. The size of your locs expands as the hair strands continue to intertwine and detangle within each loc. This phase can last up to a year as your locs mature. 

To promote healthy hair during this period, adopt a minimal-product approach. Use oils like castor oil, jojoba oil, or almond oil sparingly on your scalp to nourish the roots. Regular maintenance and occasional treatments are essential, especially if you’re not freeforming your hair.

Understanding these phases and providing proper care will help you achieve strong, healthy locs that reflect your unique style and personality.

Teenage Phase of Locs

Once your locs have taken shape and begun to solidify, you enter what’s known as the teenage phase. During this period, your locs may swell and expand, often doubling in size due to the budding process. This phase typically lasts between 6 to 18 months.

The teenage phase of locs can be characterized by unruly hair and the appearance of slow growth. This is because your locs are becoming denser and tangling internally. To manage swelling, especially in professional settings, consider styles like low-tension buns or ponytails to keep your hair neat and controlled.

As time progresses, you may notice your locs naturally shrinking in size as the strands compact tightly together. This phase can extend up to two years. However, this transformation is a natural part of the loc journey, signaling progression towards the mature loc phase.

Adult Phase of Locs

Once your locs have fully solidified and settled into their mature state, they continue to grow longer without the pronounced swelling seen in earlier phases. This period is marked by denser hair and sealed ends, resulting in a more defined and manageable appearance.

With patience and proper care, you’ll notice yours locs evolving into a mature state where growth is steady and the overall appearance becomes more polished. This signifies the culmination of your loc journey, where your hair reflects its full potential and natural beauty.

Methods For Making Locs

Starting locs is a personal choice, and there are several methods to consider:

• Comb Coils:

This method involves using a small-tooth comb to twist small sections of hair into coils. It’s a popular technique for creating uniform and neat locs.

• Palm Rolling:

Here, a stylist takes small sections of hair and rolls them between their palms to help tighten and shape the hair into traditional locs over time.

• Braids or 2-Strand Twists:

Starting with braids or two-strand twists is ideal for medium-length hair. Keep in mind that it may take six months to a year for the braiding pattern to fully blend into the locs.

• Organic/Freeform:

For a natural look, you can choose not to detangle your hair and let it lock up naturally with minimal manipulation.

Removing Your Locs: What You Need to Know

Removing locs hairstyle is often a concern for those considering the style change. Here is a way to comb out your locs without cutting it off:

1. Buy a jar of coconut oil and a strong fine-toothed comb. Set aside at least three days when you don’t need to go out. If your dreads are longer than shoulder length, consider cutting them to shoulder length—it can take weeks to comb out long dreads, and you’ll lose a lot of hair.

2. In the evening, coat a few rows of dreads in coconut oil, then wrap your hair in a turban or plastic wrap overnight.

3. The next day, get as many friends as possible to help you. Slowly and gently start combing out one dread at a time from the bottom up. Going slow is crucial to avoid breaking your hair.

4. Depending on how your dreads were made and how long you’ve had them, they could be easy or very difficult to un-comb. Dreads made with a crochet hook are usually locked tightly and harder to undo, while those made with the backcomb and roll method are easier to un-comb. Natural neglect dreads are also easier to undo unless they’re mature.

5. Ensure you’re opening the knots and not breaking the hair. Keep combing with patience and watch some movies to pass the time.

6. Each night, apply coconut oil to new sections to soften them. Each day, slowly comb out the softened dreads.

7. Continue this process until all your dreads are combed out. Wash your hair with a natural shampoo and get a trim.

It can take three 8-hour days to comb out mature 10-year-old dreads or three weeks to comb out 3-year-old dreads. The time it takes depends on how many hours you and your friends can dedicate each day and how mature your dreads are.

Be aware that you’ll lose a lot of hair since many strands break during the combing process. Fine hair tends to break more, leading to more hair loss. If your hair is fine and you’re losing more than half, you might need to consider getting a shortcut.

Let’s Talk About Locs Maintenance

Taking care of your locs is essential for keeping them shiny and strong. Here are my top tips for locs maintenance:

• Moisturize Regularly:

Keep your locs and scalp hydrated with light oils like jojoba or coconut. For extra moisture, spritz with a mix of water and a leave-in conditioner.

• Gentle Cleansing:

Wash your locs gently every 1-2 weeks using a sulfate-free, residue-free shampoo to prevent buildup. Follow up with a deep conditioning treatment for added nourishment.

• Protective Sleep Routine:

Shield your locs while you sleep by using a satin scarf, bonnet, or pillowcase. This reduces frizz and minimizes friction.

• Professional Maintenance:

Visit a loctician every 6-8 weeks for a professional retwist or maintenance session to keep your parts and roots neat and tidy.

• Handle with Care:

Avoid over-twisting or applying too much tension, as this can thin out your locs hairstyle or cause damage over time.

Remember, how well you care for your locs will determine their longevity and health—so enjoy the journey!

Photo: Instagram/ lovemaddylocs