The Hidden Meanings Behind Popular Ankara Prints

You’ve seen it everywhere: bold, vibrant Ankara fabrics wrapped around graceful women, draped over powerful men, and stitched into breathtaking designs that turn heads on the streets, at weddings, and even on international runways. But did you know that each Ankara print tells a story? That hidden within its swirls, shapes, and colors are messages passed down through generations?

In Africa, Ankara prints (a.k.a African prints) are more than just beautiful textiles; they are a form of communication, deeply embedded in culture, history, and personal identity. Each print tells a story, reflecting proverbs, traditions, spirituality, or even political sentiments. Some fabrics symbolize love and unity, while others serve as silent warnings about betrayal or financial caution.

If you’ve ever worn this African print outfit without knowing its significance, you might have been wearing a message without realizing it! Imagine attending a wedding in a print that warns of betrayal or gifting a fabric that subtly reminds someone to watch their finances. Knowing the stories behind these prints gives you a deeper connection to African heritage and helps you choose fabrics that align with your personal message.

In this article, we’ll take you on a journey through the history of Ankara fabrics, their modern significance, and, most importantly, the hidden meanings behind some of the most popular prints found in Africa.

The History of Ankara Prints

Ankara prints, also known as African wax prints, have an unexpected history. While today, the vibrant prints are seen as a symbol of African identity, their origins actually trace back to Indonesia.

In the 19th century, the Dutch sought to mass-produce the intricate batik fabrics that were popular in Indonesia. Traditional batik fabrics were hand-dyed using a wax-resist technique, but this process was time-consuming.

To increase production, the Dutch developed machine-made wax prints, hoping to sell them in Indonesia. However, the local Indonesian market rejected them, preferring their handmade textiles over the factory-produced versions.

But as these rejected fabrics made their way to West Africa, something remarkable happened. The people of Ghana, Nigeria, and Togo embraced these prints, drawn to their bold colors, geometric patterns, and durability.

Over time, Ankara designs evolved to incorporate African proverbs, cultural symbols, and local storytelling, transforming the fabric into a distinctly African art form.

Ankara Prints in the Modern Era

Ankara prints are no longer just traditional attire; they are now a global fashion statement. Designers from Africa and beyond have taken Ankara beyond the usual dresses and skirts, incorporating it into modern streetwear, office attire, luxury fashion, and even home décor.

Big names in the industry such as Stella Jean, Duro Olowu, and Lisa Folawiyo have introduced Ankara to international runways, while superstars like Beyoncé, Cynthia Erivo, Lupita Nyong’o, and more have embraced the fabric and wearing it with pride. Social media has further fueled its popularity, with African fashion influencers showcasing bold and innovative Ankara styles.

Yet, despite its worldwide appeal, the traditional meanings behind these fabrics remain deeply significant. In Africa, wearing a specific print is not just about aesthetics; it is about telling a story.

Now, let’s explore the hidden meanings behind some of the most famous Ankara prints you can find in Africa.

The Hidden Meanings Behind Popular Ankara Fabrics

Each Ankara print has a name and a meaning, often derived from Akan proverbs, African folklore, or historical figures. Here are some of the most well-known prints and the messages they convey:

This Ankara print is a warning about financial responsibility. The phrase literally translates to “money has wings,” implying that wealth can disappear just as quickly as it is gained.

• Message: Be wise with your finances, as money does not stay in one place.
• When to Wear It: This fabric is a great reminder for entrepreneurs and businesspeople, symbolizing the need for careful financial management.

This print is inspired by Highlife music, one of Africa’s most famous musical genres. Highlife combines African rhythms with Western instruments and has been a symbol of celebration and cultural pride for decades.

• Message: Celebration, joy, and love for music.
• When to Wear It: This African print is perfect for parties, music festivals, and any occasion where you want to embrace your culture.

Nsubra is an Akan word that means “well.” The fabric’s tiny spirals of dots represent the ripples that form when water is disturbed. This pattern serves as a reminder that our actions create waves, and what we do impacts those around us.

• Message: Mindfulness, cause, and effect.
• When to Wear It: Ideal for educators, leaders, and those who work in social change or activism.

This African print, featuring eye-like designs, serves as a warning; people are always watching, even when they don’t speak. It can also symbolize spiritual awareness, as many believe that God sees everything.

• Message: Be mindful of your actions; people are observing you.
• When to Wear It: A bold choice for politicians, influencers, or anyone in the public eye.

The Ankara fabric, with patterns resembling small stones, carries a painful yet powerful message: Betrayal from a family member or close friend hurts more than from an outsider.

• Message: Trust cautiously; betrayal often comes from those closest to you.
• When to Wear It: This African print can be a conversation starter about personal experiences and resilience.

Named after Ghana’s first president, Kwame Nkrumah, this meaning of this Ankara print symbolizes leadership, wisdom, and eloquence. Nkrumah was known for carefully crafting his speeches, ensuring his words left a lasting impact.

• Message: The power of knowledge and strong leadership.
• When to Wear It: A great choice for students, scholars, and anyone in a leadership role.

This Ankara fabric represents the tortoise, a symbol of wisdom, patience, and longevity. The design resembles the shell of a tortoise, reminding wearers that slow and steady wins the race.

• Message: Perseverance leads to success.
• When to Wear It: This Ankara dress is Perfect for graduations, career milestones, or new beginnings.

Ankara prints are more than fabric; they are stories, warnings, and celebrations woven into textiles. The next time you shop for African print fabric, take a moment to ask: What message am I wearing?

Photo: Instagram/tokemakinwa