London Fashion Week turned 40 this year but continues to be a spectacular event for the display of sophisticated designs in the UK, providing a platform for fashion designers from across the globe to shine.
Since 1984, LFW has been a big supporter of both experienced and new fashion talents. And, this season is extra exciting because many designers got the New Gen bursary, giving them a free show venue at The Old Selfridges Hotel last Friday. The lineup featured emerging talents like Chet Lo, Sinead O’Dwyer, Fashion East, and the standout Tolu Coker.
Tolu Coker who started her eponymous fashion brand in 2018 has been gaining attention in London for her collections, where she tells stories, especially that of Africa, through strong silhouettes. Breaking down the intricacies of Diasporic Black Identity, Coker’s collections are expressive, vibrant, and intellectually stimulating, pushing the boundaries of both contemporary art and fashion.
This season, she’s in the spotlight for promoting sustainable fashion via her AW24 collection at London Fashion Week; her commitment to eco-friendly fashion elements, adds depth and importance to her unique designs.
Tolu Coker Fall 2024 RTW The young British-Nigerian designer told Vogue that the idea for her latest collection came from the lively street hawkers she saw in Ghana during her visit to Accra last November.
Tolu Coker found herself fascinated by these hawkers, both young and old, who were selling all kinds of things in heavy traffic – from drinks and snacks to second-hand clothes – just to get by. She noticed something interesting too; these hawkers, struggling to make a living, also end up promoting big international brands, even though they live in poverty.
Street hawking hits close to home for Coker because her mother used to do the same while they lived in Lagos, Nigeria. That resourceful spirit stuck with Coker’s mother, who later moved to the UK. This personal connection adds depth and meaning to Coker’s work, making it more than just fashion; it’s a way to honor her roots and showcase the resilience of street hawkers.
“Our home is an absolute cave – she doesn’t throw anything away,” Coker shares with British Vogue. “We’ve got jackets older than I am in the house. I think this is something that a lot of people across the diaspora can relate to, when you have parents or roots that come from a completely different walk of life where there is a lot of scarcity. Everything is of value.”
Tolu Coker Fall 2024 RTW As one of the few African fashion designers representing the continent on global runways, Coker’s work has always included upcycled and recycled materials, reflecting the cultural mindset she was raised with. She sees sustainability not just as a “USP” or a marketing tactic but as an integral part of daily life in the communities she knows.
Beyond highlighting the struggles of street hawkers through her immersive runway experiences, inspired by the way they dress even in challenging conditions, Coker infuses their layering style, practicality and convenience into her AW24 designs. The collection’s textures and prints draw inspiration from the striped cloth often worn by street hawkers.
Acknowledging the substantial clothing waste in the Global South, Coker confronts the fashion industry’s constant desire for “new stuff” by showcasing pieces from her previous collections on the LFW AW24 runway. She stresses the importance of investing in items that can be worn in various ways over the years.
This approach, which she also pulled off in her previous show, is part of her ongoing efforts to promote the widespread adoption of sustainable fashion, particularly on prominent runways.
