The fashion industry has long been criticized for its lack of diversity and inclusion, and this issue is very evident in events like Lagos Fashion Week. Despite the growing demand for more representation in the industry, plus-size models and models of different ethnicities still face numerous barriers and are often underrepresented on the runway.
A scan through the shows at the just concluded Lagos Fashion Week 2023 is proof that these systemic issues and working towards a more inclusive and diverse fashion industry are still a big problem.
The state of diversity and inclusion in Lagos Fashion Week
Lagos Fashion Week has made significant strides in promoting diversity and inclusion within the fashion industry. The organizers of the shows have taken tangible steps to break down barriers by showcasing the talent and creativity of a diverse range of Nigerian and African designers.
They have implemented initiatives to support emerging designers, providing mentorship, and training to ensure that new talents are seen and represented on the runway. Programs like Green Access create an opportunity for young designers to be nurtured with the commitment to provide them with a wider audience.
It should also not be overlooked that Lagos Fashion Week has fostered a culture of collaboration and networking, enabling industry professionals to connect and share ideas.
Through panel discussions, workshops, and networking events, they have created spaces for important conversations about navigating successfully in the fashion business with the industry. These efforts have not only led to a greater impact but have helped to guide and position young designers in the right direction.
Photo: LagosFW 2023 A thin model walks the runway for Elie Kuame at the 2023 Lagos Fashion Week in Lagos.
However, while Lagos Fashion Week has made significant progress over the years, there is still work to be done. The annual event has the potential to become a significant catalyst for change in the industry, but for that, it needs to actively address the issues of diversity and inclusion. By doing so, it can serve as a powerful platform for showcasing the richness and diversity of African fashion talent, while also promoting inclusivity and changing the face of fashion.
The 2023 Lagos Fashion Week that took place last month in Lagos between the 25th to 29th of October marked its 12th edition in the industry, and diversity and inclusion appeared to be mere buzzwords.
One of the core issues is the underrepresentation of diverse ethnicities on the runway. Nigeria, despite being a country with immense diversity, Lagos Fashion Week shows often feature a majority of models based on recommendations. This lack of representation denies an opportunity for models of different ethnic backgrounds to gain visibility and recognition.
More so, the concept of inclusion extends beyond ethnicity. The fashion industry has traditionally favored models who fit into a narrow size range, excluding those who do not meet the industry’s standards of beauty.
This exclusion perpetuates harmful body image ideals and restricts the variety of body shapes and sizes seen on the runway. At the 2023 Lagos Fashion Show, we could hardly see plus-size or curvy models — only one for each show walked for brands such as FIA, Desiree Iyama, Geto, Studio Imo, and The Lady Maker, out of thirty-five (35) fashion brands and shows.
Photo: LagosFW 2023 A curvy model walks the runway for Desiree Iyama at the 2023 Lagos Fashion Week in Lagos.
There are also disparities in the opportunities offered to emerging designers. Access to resources and financial support heavily favor those from privileged backgrounds, leaving many talented designers without a chance to showcase their work. This lack of inclusion stifles creativity and limits the industry’s growth potential.
Photo: LagosFW 2023 A curvy model walks the runway for FIA at the 2023 Lagos Fashion Week in Lagos.
Empowering underrepresented designers and models
Empowering underrepresented designers and models is not just about ticking off the diversity and inclusion checkbox. It is about recognizing and celebrating the unique perspectives and talents that individuals from diverse backgrounds bring to the industry.
In other words, it involves actively seeking out and supporting designers and models who come from marginalized communities and giving them a voice and visibility in the industry.
There are several ways to empower underrepresented designers and models. One way is to prioritize diversity and inclusivity in casting calls and runway shows. This means actively seeking out models from a variety of ethnicities, ages, sizes, and genders to participate in fashion events. It also means showcasing collections that cater to a diverse range of customer needs and preferences.
Photo: LagosFW 2023 A plus-size model walks the runway for GETO at the 2023 Lagos Fashion Week in Lagos.
In this case, it’d be fascinating to see the Lagos Fashion Week shows that also championed body positivity by featuring models of all shapes, sizes, and ages, challenging mainstream beauty standards, and redefining what it means to be a fashion model.
The organizers of Lagos Fashion Week should not only talk about diversity and inclusion for the sake of the mainstream media buzz but to truly understand the importance of representing the rich cultural heritage and ethnic diversity of Nigeria and the continent as a whole.
They should actively seek out designers from different backgrounds and regions, ensuring that the runway reflects the vast array of styles, traditions, and perspectives that exist within African fashion.
By creating a more inclusive and representative industry, we can inspire new ideas, challenge stereotypes, and ultimately create a fashion industry that is truly reflective of our diverse society.
Photo: LagosFW 2023
